La Cova Fumada is a humble-looking tapas bar that hasn’t changed over the past few decades. Just one of the reasons why it’s still going from strength to strength. Make sure you order the “Bombas”: a potato croquette with a spicy sauce that is claimed to have been invented here. Also, keep your eye out for anything seasonal such as the artichokes. This place isn’t particularly easy to find: it doesn’t have a name on the door. But if you go around noon, you will see a queue of people waiting to go in, and you’ll know you are in the right place.